Pages

Saturday, 6 July 2013

Day 3 & 4 - Takayama

The journey from Kyoto to Takayama takes about 3 hours through the lush forests and hills of the area.  It was overcast, and with the mist coming off the swift flowing river gave the whole scene a magical, mythical look.  One could imagine castles and dragons and other scenes from fairy tales.


Takayama is a small, much-more-traditional village where it is possible to see buildings, built in the traditional style of the 1700s, standing in the location where they were built. Given the number of buildings which we have seen in other places which are built "in the style of" but are much more modern (due most often to fires) this was pretty spectacular.

We stayed in the Yamakyu Ryokan, which is a traditional Japanese hotel.  


We chose to have the meals as well, and were not disappointed.  The rooms were "traditional" which meant we slept on mats on the floor.  The room had a low table and two floor "chairs" kind of like wooden beach chairs.  


While we went for dinner, our room was "made up" for sleeping.  Dinner was in the dining room, eaten at low tables.  


The hotel advertises that the meals are cooked by "Japanese mothers". There were a lot of dishes.  At our dinner I counted 19 different dishes/bowls/plates which would need to be washed.

For dinner there was a cold salmon dish, cold deep-fried prawns, a salad, sashimi, potatoes and eggplant, rice, a beef dish which cooked at the table, and tempura.  There was a miso soup, an onion and vegetable soup and dessert.  Were stuffed when it was finished.

Our rooms were comfortable, and we all had a good sleep.  Breakfast was a repeat of dinner in variety of dishes.

Included in this meal was a steamed egg, a tofu dish...well, two tofu dishes, and miso soup, and rice, a salad, yogurt, a bun, and an assortment of...something which we didn't identify, but that was tasty.

After breakfast we were ready to do more exploring.

Sights of Takayama...

Our first stop was Kusakabe house - a historical house which belonged to a money trader.  Like most structures from this time it was built of wood - not surprising in this heavily forested area.  Inside were displays of the daily items used at the time the house was occupied.  The owner of the house was a wealthy man who was not nobility, or related to the emperor in any way.  This was fairly unusual at the time.  After the tour we were treated to green tea and rice crackers in the garden.

 Women's hair pins
 Pocket manicure set.

The old streets of Takayama are lined with small shops, many selling sake.  Tasting is offered as well, and we took the opportunity to sample several varieties of sake.  

Views of Takayama.




We visited the national historical landmark - a magistrates office from the period of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

  


It was a huge building with many rooms, and a huge storehouse for the grain which was taken as taxes from the people.  The fireplaces ( there were several in the house...for the officials, and the servants) were interesting.  None of the stoves or fireplaces vented to the outside, which must have meant that smoke was trapped in the house.

  Fireplace in the officials quarters.

 Kitchen

 Interrogation room.  Note the cage for carrying prisoners.  A prisoner would have to kneel on the wooden slats in the centre while being interrogated. 

 A toilet, which looks disturbingly familiar...


Our next stop was a traditional village.  The village was created from a number of historical buildings, some of which were in danger of being destroyed by flooding for the hydro electric dam.  They are representations of the types of buildings found in villages in Japan during (mostly) the 1700s.

Two types of roofs were used in traditional buildings...shingles made out if chestnut and thatch made out of straw.  Both types of roofs were made from local materials.  The buildings also had a floor made from a mixture of red clay, lime and water.  This mixture was hard, not dusty, cool in winter and warm in summer.  It helped maintain the moisture level in the house.  The smoke from the fires helped keep the roofing material bug free, and regulated the moisture.  The shingle roofs lasted about 20 years and the thatch roofs about 60 years! 

 Traditional shingled house

 Thatched house

 Look how thick the thatch is!

 From the inside, beams tied together with straw rope...thatch sewn together and tied on with straw rope.

  Interesting....(note the unavoidable shadow)

In the village were craftspeople showing the kind of traditional crafts which would have been practiced in the village.  There was also a "craft experience" opportunity for tourists.

 A weaver.


Other things we did and saw...

 How about this chair for the deck?

 Stilts anyone?

 Flowers everywhere!

Satisfied, we boarded a train for Kyoto at 4:44...back to the hotel of two days ago.  Tomorrow we will see more sights in Kyoto.

For a really "Japanese" experience I would highly recommend Takayama.  It would be very easy to spend several days enjoying the sights, walking around, looking in shops and just marvelling at the beautiful green countryside.  I think it's a fairly popular destination.  I think I saw more tourists here than I've seen in anyplace in Seoul outside of Itaewon or Insadong.  5 star days...




























No comments:

Post a Comment